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Eastern Canada Tour to Perce, Quebec

Before I planned this trip to Perce, Quebec I had always thought there was not much to do and to see east of Quebec City. Boy, was I wrong! My road trip has numerous attractions and activities, and filled with scenic views, vibrant history, and lots of entertainment. You should seriously consider going yourself. Hopefully my Blog will help you to decide.

Useful brochures of the Gaspesie region:

https://www.tourisme-gaspesie.com/en/practical/brochures.html

The Journey

Our journey was like going to New York and back twice. The total distance driven in 8 days between August 12 - 19, 2021 was 3200 KM. Above is a map of our route. We drove during daytime and booked either hotels or campsites along the way. This turned out to be a very good decision as this allowed for a good night of rest in between driving, and the last 300 KM was 100% mountain roads with lots of twist and turns coupled with lots sudden deceleration. I found putting the car in cruise control helped a lot as I could use the cruise to adjust for the change in road speed as opposed to over using my brakes and it was definitely safer too.

Day 1: It was a rainy morning, but we had the Yakima Skybox all ready packed the night before. Over the years we found the Skybox to be extremely useful as it allowed for storage of all non-essential items away from the trunk and so not have too many items blocking my rear-view mirror. We said goodbye to the kids, gave them one final hug, and we were on our way on this epic 3200 KM journey.

 

In this trip we also brought along a mini travel fridge to keep our drinks cold. We liked the fridge over bring a cooler as there is no worry about finding ice on-route and having to deal with the occasional leakage of water from melted ice. However, you will need to purchase a power converter if your car does not already have one installed.

South Stormont, Ontario

The Barlow Solar Energy Centre.

Photo taken at 13 Railway Street, South Stormont, ON K0C 1M0, Canada

We passed by this solar farm and thought to ourselves wouldn’t it be nice if we could see the whole thing. Little did we realized the scale of this particular one. Once I got my drone in the air, the image was powerful indeed, even when I only flew on a side road near the solar farm entrance as there were “No Trespassing” signs everywhere. This turned out to be the The Barlow Solar Energy Centre. There are four similar farms in the area. The one I took pictures is located on Railway Street, just south of the 401. Comprised of photovoltaic panels with a contract capacity of 10 MWac, the solar installation occupies a parcel of land spanning with a total area of approximately 100 acres. Notice highway 401 near the top of the picture and the railway tracks at the bottom. This will give you a sense of scale and how massive this farm really is.

 

After 10 hours on the road and countless photo stops and washroom stops, we stayed overnight at a hotel just past Quebec City.

La Pocatière, Quebec

10 Rte du Quai, La Pocatière.

Day 2: We had a very early breakfast at the hotel and were on our way soon after.

Marais (marsh) de Gros-Cacouna is on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River along route 132, about 10 km east of Rivière-du-Loup, Québec. The site encompasses a 10 km stretch of shoreline, that includes mudflats that are up to 1 km wide, and a 2 km wide strip of open water. It is home to southern Quebec’s largest sprawl of Spartina marshes. This site is considered one of the three most important shorebird sites on the river's south shore, between La Pocatière and Matane. This picture was taken at the north end of Rte du Quai in La Pocatière. The red building is the information centre. I flew my drone over the marsh as it was not possible to walk through it. This was my first encounter of a marsh and I loved the sceneries my drone captured. Check out the video clips above.

 

Saint-Simon, Quebec

Day 2: About 40 minute west of Rominski, we came to this bagel shop and saw many cars pulling into the parking lot, so we naturally followed them in. There was a line up about 5 people in front of us so we took the opportunity to snap a few pictures around the parking lot. By the time we got back in line, a man came out from the shop and told us he just lost $10 trying to buy bagels. We were wondering how could that be? Once we walked in we were surprised to find no real people working, no sales counter, and only a food dispensing machine. Now after hearing the man already lost $10 we decided to keep our money but took a few pictures from inside the kiosk. Very interesting establishment. I found out after that this was a legitimate business and this was how this company sell bagels. But I probably would not have enjoyed it unless they can offer double toasted and double butter just like Tim’s.

 

Rimouski, Quebec

Rimouski Lighthouse

You can clearly see the exposed rocks along the shore during low tide.

They used this peninsula exclusively as a trailer park. My dream is to get one of those for our next trip - a trailer, not a peninsula.

Day 2: This 3rd Pointe-Au-Père Lighthouse was built in 1909 in the city of Pointe-au-Père, near Rimouski, Quebec, Canada. The lighthouse is 108 feet (33 m) tall, which makes it the second tallest in eastern Canada. It is built in a characteristic shape, employing eight concrete buttresses to support a slender central cylinder. The site was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1974.

The submarine in the last picture is the HMCS Onondaga (S73), it is an Oberon-class submarine that served in the Royal Canadian Navy and later the Canadian Forces. Built in the mid-1960s, Onondaga operated primarily with the Maritime Forces Atlantic until her decommissioning in 2000 as the last Canadian Oberon. The historique maritime de la Pointe-au-Père in Rimouski purchased the boat for preservation as a museum vessel. The submarine was moved into location during 2008, and is open to the public.

 

Initially the plan was to spend no more than 30 minutes for a few pictures but we ended up staying close to 3 hours. I blamed it on the drone as it was impossible to resist taking videos of the awesome scenery, especially the mountain climbing footage (with almost Hollywood quality) of my wife. You can see that footage above too.

Sainte-Flavie in Gaspésie

Center d'art Marcel Gagnon, in Sainte-Flavie, Gaspésie.

Day 2: So by now you probably figured out why we ended up driving the last stretch of mountain road after dark. And this time it was my wife who asked me to make a u-turn on the highway to come back to this site. And I did. But it was all worth the effort.

Not even 30 minutes out of Rimouski we saw these life-size statues emerging from the sea. Its called "Le Grand Rassemblement". There is no other way to describe these except to say that they are a very unique work of art-nature. Made in several parts by its designer Marcel Gagnon, he wanted to find his own style. It is by starting by painting his characters that he decided to give them shape by sculpting them. Inspired by the movement of the sea and its tides, he literally integrated his work right into the waters of the St. Lawrence River. In 1986, the artist created more than 80 life-size sculptures, in reinforced concrete, each weighing more than 685 kg. In 2003, he increased the number of statues to more than a hundred. He made these characters as if they were emerging from the sea. They are constantly changing under the eyes of visitors due to the water levels. At low tide you can walk to the foot of the last sculpture in the river and at high tide this one and several others end up completely covered in water. We were very fortunate to have visited during low tide and were able to take pictures up close with a few.

 

Speaking of low tide and high tide, you should be aware that the tide hours changes everyday and no two locations are ever the same. This is due to the duration of a lunar day (the times it takes the earth to re-aligh with the moon, about 24 hours and 50 minutes and not 24 hours), difference in the underlying regional geography (such as underwater obstacles and channels) and how far is the location in relation to the moon at that moment (this directly affects the force of gravitational attraction between the earth and the moon). You need to google the tide hours and tide range for your particular area, such as using https://www.tideschart.com/Canada/Quebec/Cap-Perce/ or www.tide-forecast.com and plan to start your journey before low tide. Tideschart.com has additional information including weather, water temperatures and fishing times. Many of the information centres and campsites in Quebec will have the local tide table posted.

Speaking of information centres, there are plenty of those along the route, and the same goes for public washrooms. Most scenic locations will have big and visible blue washroom signs posted and the washrooms are very clean, and they are all welcoming. This is contrary to what is available in Ontario.

Cap-Chat, Quebec

This is the Eole. It is huge.

Day 2: This was a planned stop. I can’t believe we are still only in Day 2. Located between sea and mountains, Cap-Chat is home to the world’s largest vertical-axis wind turbine, the Eole, which dominates the landscape along with 76 others horizontal axis wind turbine (HAWT). We arrived about 30 minutes before closing so we decided to not hike up the Eole. You can, for a $15 fee and a short drive up the road from the kiosk. Instead we asked the attendant to let us in to snap a few quick pictures.

 

Saint-Maxime-du-Mont-Louis, Quebec

The original plan was to drive up that mountain in the background for a bird’s eye view of the highway pass. But it was already closed by the time we arrived.

Day 2: The sunset was beautiful when we passed Saint-Maxime-du-Mont-Louis. But before that we found this perfect picnic table built under a Gazebo with the best mountain/ocean view we have ever seen. So we took out our hot-pot stove, cooked our dinner and ate it right there. After that we were very much behind schedule so we braced ourselves for a lot of driving through the mountains in the dark. We had to keep going as we had a reservation at the Petit-Gaspé Campground.

 

Petit-Gaspé Campground

The Ôasis

Day 3: This water droplet shaped accommodation was our house for the night. Its equipped with a convertible table/bed on the main level and a suspended hammock loft above. Located in the Des-Rosiers Campground, this was a top-notch camping experience. Unfortunately we were only able to book this for one night, the next evening we stayed in our tent.

Forillon National Park

Cap-Bon-Ami hiking trail

This was the starting point of our hike. On the left is a path to go to the beach. The whole area was reeked, we didn’t know where it came from at first, but soon found out when we walked to the beach and there it was, a mostly eaten carcass of a whale, and my wife almost stepped onto the leftover fatty tissue thinking it was a platform of rock.

Day 3: Forillon National Park, one of 42 national parks and park reserves across Canada, is located at the outer tip of the Gaspé Peninsula of Quebec and covers 244 km2 (94 sq mi). Forillon National Park is known for the diversity of its natural riches. The park's main attractions are its remarkable geological features, notably the rugged coastline forged by thousands of years of marine erosion. Three camping areas are available: one in the southern sector and two in the northern sector. We stayed in two camping areas during our visit. The southern sectors are excellent for families, but the northern camp ground is closest to the best hiking trails and view of the shore and for swimming. You can see the parking lot in the photo above (where all hiking trails start) and the beach in the next photo. You can see we are already pretty high up the mountain. But this was only the beginning.

 

We chose to hike the Cap-Bon-Ami hiking trail. From the parking lot you can look up the mountain and see the observatory tower, but as you can see from the map the trail took a long rounding path inside the forest to go up, and it was a strenuous hike with mostly near vertical climb all the way through. Hiking boots are highly recommended and so is an extra supply of water.

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The wooden observatory deck. It has several levels.

After two hours and 1.8 KM of nearly 100% steep uphill climb, we finally reached the observation tower on Mt. Saint-Alban with a 360° panoramic view. We are now at an altitude of 283 meters, or 85.7 stories in a building. The 283 meters of elevation in 1.8 KM makes this hike a moderate difficulty trail. And so a round trip back to the parking lot will be 3.6 KM total. GPS coordinates: 48.809237, -64.221268. You can see the parking lot where the journey started.

Magnificent view. It was worth the climb. See the couple of tents down below right by the water, that was supposed to our third campsite. But Sadly a rain storm passed our second campsite overnight and we were literally flooded inside the tent (I had to scoop water out from the tent for the 2 hours it rained outside) so we couldn’t camp for a third night even though we already had this camp site booked. After shoving all the wet gear in the skybox the next morning, this is another example where a skybox is absolutely a life saver, we went to the town of Perce and found a nice little motel a short walking distance to the Rock. Hotels are plentiful all over the town’s main street. Regardless what the sign says at the reception window, it does not hurt to just go in and ask.

Percé, Quebec

Day 4: Here we are, finally arriving at the main attraction. This is the boardwalk that run the entire shore of the town, with plenty of motels and restaurants along the way. This is also the path to walk over to the Perce Rock. You can see the narrow beach path and the corner where you must step out onto the water to get around the cliff. It’s not an easy walk. We attempted two times before going all the way because we did not have the right walking and water shoes so we had to turn back.

This is the beach walk to the rock. Some stones are slippy in some places due to seaweeds washing up and getting stuck on them.

Going over to the rock require walking over these uneven rocks and at times these rocks are under fairly deep water depending on the tide. It is important to time yourself for your return trip or you may find yourself stranded on a section of beach overnight in total darkness until the next low tide.

View of the Percé Rock from Cap Mont-Joli. Below is the sandbar to walk over to the Rock.

View of Percé Rock from the sandbar. The rock is about 450 metres (1476 feet) wide, 90 metres (295 feet) deep and 88 metres (289 feet) high.

The backside of the Rock with the Town of Perce in the background.

Day 4: Notice the sandbar that is partially under the water. During low tide it is possible to walk over to Perce Rock. However, getting to this spot from the shore is a huge challenge already as the beach is full of uneven rocks that is very difficult to walk on. Moreover, the town had disallowed walking around the Perce Rock in the last few years due to danger of falling rock.

 

This was taken on the pier at near midnight. It was cold and windy, with the wind being the most challenging from keeping my tripod steady. This shot was exposed for 30 minutes. The area of the rock was in total darkness so it took a few test shots to get it to level. I wanted to maximize the stars trails so I used a 14mm lens at F4.

 
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Pictures of the Town of Perce from above.

 

Perce Rock at sunset.

 

Bonaventure Island

The Perce Rock with Bonaventure Island in the distant. From this picture you can easily tell the location of the island in relation to the town.

Useful links to the island:

https://www.sepaq.com/pq/bon/index.dot?language_id=1

This was taken at the pier. Group orientation and pass check is done at the white house on the left. The building on the right side is a nice cozy canteen and that is the only source of snacks for purchase on the island. We sat on the patio and enjoyed the ocean view with our coffee.

This is the marker for one of several trails available on the island. We picked this one to hike for the scenic view as this one winds around the ocean side of the island. There is another trail that is more direct and flat, easier to walk and takes shorter time, but it is inside the forest without any scenic view.

Two selfies taken at a lookout point along the Mousses Trail on Bonaventure Island. This is the reward for taking the longer route.

Day 5: Bonaventure Island, or L’Ile Bonaventure in French, is a small island just off the coast of the eastern Gaspé Peninsula in Quebec. Bonaventure Island is located only a short boat ride, precisely 3.3 km, from the village of Percé. The whole island is a national park and a perfect destination for a family hiking day trip. But hiking is not the main reason for visiting the area. The magnet that attracts visitors to Bonaventure Island is beautiful white sea birds called northern gannets.

Notice the Northern Gannets sitting on top of the cliffs. Bonaventure island is designated as a Migratory Bird Sanctuary. Access to the island is via ferry from the main dock in Percé. The cost is $42 per person that includes a boat tour around both the Perce Rock and Bonaventure Island itself. There is also a $9 per person park entrance fee to the island (you don’t have to pay if you stay on the boat and go back to Perce). It is possible to buy the park pass once you disembark but it is easier to just purchase it online the day prior. The park rangers didn’t scan anything, they only did a visual check of my receipt. We also saw seals during the boat ride.

The view looking out from the Mousses Trail lookout.

Day 5: Le Mousses is a narrow, unobtrusive trail that winds through moss and lichen-covered slopes before reaching the cliffs, offering magnificent views of the sea and the edge of the continent stretching in the distance. Round trip totals 7 KM in about 2.5 hours. Its rated level of difficulty is intermediate.

 

The end of the trail is the colony (about 60,000 pairs) of Northern Gannets.

Feeding the young. Young chicks are fed regurgitated semi-digested fish by their parents, who open their mouths wide for their young to fetch the food from the back of their throats.

The northern gannet (Morus bassanus) is a seabird, the largest species of the gannet family, Sulidae. It is native to the coasts of the Atlantic Ocean, breeding in Western Europe and Northeastern North America. There are six breeding colonies along the coast of Canada. The Gulf of Saint Lawrence hosts three colonies—Bonaventure Island, Bird Rocks and Anticosti Island—and there are three off the eastern and southeastern coast of Newfoundland. Bonaventure Island is the largest colony with 60,000 nests as of 2009.

 

Routhierville, Quebec

Day 6: Today we leave Perce and start our return journey home.

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The community of Routhierville is accessible from Route 132 with a covered bridge over the Matapédia River, built in 1931 to replace a ferry. This 78.5-metre-long (258 ft) and 6.3-metre-wide (21 ft) bridge was classified as a historic monument on October 1, 2009, and rebuilt in 2011.